Qipao or Cheongsam? How to Choose and Fit One for Chinese New Year

Qipao and cheongsam are two names for the same dress. "Qipao" (旗袍) is the Mandarin name. "Cheongsam" comes from Cantonese and is the word used more often in Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.

So the real question is not which one to buy. It is which cut, length and fabric suit you, and how to get the fit right. That is what this guide covers.

Where the qipao comes from

The qipao grew out of the long robes worn in the Qing dynasty. In 1920s Shanghai it was cut closer to the body and became the look we recognise today: a high mandarin collar, a side opening fastened with frog buttons (盘扣), and side slits so you can walk. Since then it has been shortened, made sleeveless, turned into two-piece sets and remade in modern fabrics. All of these still count as a qipao.

The parts that make it a qipao

• Mandarin collar. A short standing collar. It can be high and formal, or low and relaxed.
• Frog buttons. Knotted cloth buttons, usually on the diagonal front panel or at the collar.
• Side slits. These let you walk and sit. A longer dress needs a longer slit.
• Close fit. A traditional qipao follows the body. Modern versions often add a little ease or stretch.

Traditional dress or modern set?

A one-piece qipao feels the most classic and photographs beautifully at reunion dinner. Modern options are easier to wear more than once:

• Qipao top with a skirt or trousers. You can wear the top again with jeans after the holidays. Try the Qing Yu Chinese Modern Top.
• Cheongsam two-piece sets. Easier to move in and to fit, because top and bottom are sized separately. See the Jin Hun Cheongsam Set and the Mirabelle Sweet Cheongsam Set.
• Chinese-style rompers and short sets. Best for hot afternoons and open houses, like the Butterfly Chinese Style Romper.

How to get the fit right

A qipao has less room for error than most dresses, so measure before you choose a size. You need a soft tape and about two minutes.

1. Bust: around the fullest part of your chest, tape level.
2. Waist: around the narrowest part, usually just above the belly button.
3. Hips: around the fullest part of your hips and seat.

Compare your numbers with the size chart on each product page. Our charts are measured flat on the actual garment, in cm. For a close-fitting qipao, the garment should be about 1–3 cm larger than your body at the bust, waist and hips. If you are between sizes, choose by your hip measurement, because a tight hip is what makes a qipao hard to sit in.

If you only remember your measurements in inches, use the cm / inch converter on each product page.

Fabric and comfort in hot weather

• Jacquard and brocade hold their shape and look festive. Good for evenings in air-conditioned rooms.
• Cotton and cotton blends breathe better for daytime visits.
• Satin looks rich but shows creases and warmth. Save it for dinner.
• Linings make lighter fabrics less sheer and help the dress sit smoothly.

How to style it without looking costumed

• Keep jewellery simple. Pearl studs or a thin gold chain are enough with a high collar.
• Wear your hair up or tucked behind your ears, so the collar shows.
• Choose low block heels or flats if you will be visiting several houses.
• Carry one clear colour accent, such as a red bag or gold shoes, rather than many.

Caring for your qipao

• Hand wash in cool water or use the gentle cycle in a laundry bag.
• Do not wring. Roll it in a towel, then hang to dry in the shade.
• Iron on low heat from the inside, especially over embroidery.
• Store it on a padded hanger so the shoulders and collar keep their shape.

Quick answers

Is there a difference between a qipao and a cheongsam?

No. They are the same garment. Qipao is the Mandarin name and cheongsam is the Cantonese one.

Can I wear a qipao if I am not Chinese?

Yes. In Malaysia and Singapore, friends of many backgrounds often wear a qipao to Chinese New Year visits. Wear it with respect and enjoy it.

How tight should a qipao be?

Fitted but not restrictive. You should be able to sit, raise your arms and breathe comfortably. Allow about 1–3 cm of ease over your body measurements.

What colour qipao is best for Chinese New Year?

Red, pink, peach and gold are the traditional lucky colours. Cream or pale blue with red or gold details also works well.

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